Santa Teresa and Playa Carmen stretch along the southern tip of Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula. A single road connects these beach communities, running about 7 kilometers from the crossroads at Playa Carmen to the northern edge of Santa Teresa. All along this road the jungle meets the sandy beaches of the Pacific coastline.

The Playa Carmen area is essentially at the center point between Santa Teresa to the north and Mal País to the south. This spot is as a tourism hub with its central location and shops, restaurants, and hostels. You’ll find larger grocery stores in this area so you can get your essentials for your stay.

Getting here takes a bit more time than other Costa Rican beach towns. Most people arrive by ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera, then drive about 1.5 hours along the peninsula’s coast. Most of this route is well paved, but there are sections that are uneven, patchy and gravel. There’s also the option to land at the Liberia Airport and drive straight south for about 4 hours to get to Santa Teresa.

Getting Here and Area Layout

Santa Teresa is at the southern tip of Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula, about 150 kilometers west of the San José International Airport. Getting here means first driving to the port city of Puntarenas, catching a ferry across the gulf, then winding through the peninsula on a mix of paved and uneven roads. The extra travel time keeps visitor numbers lower than more accessible beach towns.

The Santa Teresa area spreads along a single coastal road that connects several beach communities. Starting at the Playa Carmen intersection, this main dirt road runs north for about 7 kilometers through Santa Teresa before reaching Playa Hermosa. To the south, it connects to the fishing village of Mal País. The entire strip has stayed relatively undeveloped with thick jungle running right up to the beach.

The Ferry Route from San José

The drive from San José International Airport to the Puntarenas ferry takes about 2 hours. You’ll head west on Highway 1 through the mountains until you reach the long peninsula that is the town of Puntarenas. The ferry terminal is at the far end of Puntarenas, you’ll see the vehicle loading area with large infrastructure for the ferries.

Ferries run several times daily between Puntarenas and Paquera. The first boat leaves Puntarenas at about 5:30 AM and the last one at 8:30 PM. The crossing takes about 70 minutes. You’ll want to arrive at least an hour early to buy tickets and get your car in line. During busy seasons and holidays, showing up an hour early is crucial.

*Note: There is another ferry which goes from Puntarenas to Naranjo. This location is farther north along the Nicoya Peninsula, which will result in a longer drive to Santa Teresa. Be sure to get on the Paquera ferry.

Once you reach Paquera, the drive to Santa Teresa takes about 1.5 hours. The road starts out paved as you head toward Cobano, then turns to uneven pavement/gravel portions for the final stretch to the beach. Most rental cars can handle this route fine in dry season, but 4×4 vehicles make the journey more comfortable.

The Peninsula Drive

From Paquera, you’ll follow the signs toward Cobano on a paved two-lane road. The route winds through hills and farmland for about 45 minutes. Cobano is the last major town before the beach, with several grocery stores and gas stations where you can stock up on supplies.

If you’d like to stop at a beach along the way to Cobano, check out Playa Tambor. This quiet beach is great for swimming and has a few restaurants at the beach. It’s also directly off the main road towards Santa Teresa. Here’s a video profile of Playa Tambor.

After Cobano, the road is unevenly paved/gravel for the final 25-minute drive to Playa Carmen. This stretch can get bumpy and dusty in dry season or muddy during rains. You’ll pass through the small town of Delicias before the final descent toward the coast. When you arrive at Playa Carmen you’ll see a built up area with grocery stores and shops, along with the ocean one block away.

Most GPS apps work fine for navigation but cell service can get spotty on the final stretch. The route is well marked with signs pointing to Santa Teresa and Mal País at major turns. If you’re arriving after dark, take it slow – the dirt roads have lots of dips and occasional potholes that are hard to spot at night.

Santa Teresa Area

The main road through Santa Teresa runs parallel to the beach, connecting several distinct areas. Starting at Playa Carmen, it heads north for about 7 kilometers to Playa Hermosa. This single dirt road gets busy with ATVs, motorcycles, and cars kicking up dust during dry season.

Playa Carmen marks the start of the strip, with a busy intersection near Super Ronny and the soccer field. As you head north, you’ll pass surf shops, cafes, and hotels tucked into the jungle on both sides of the road. The road stays close to the beach the whole way, with paths leading to different beach access points.

Side roads branch off toward the beach and up into the hills, where many hotels sit on the hillside overlooking the ocean. The main road gets rougher and steeper as you head north, with some sections requiring 4×4 during rainy season. The area has kept its natural feel, with monkeys and iguanas often visible in trees along the road.

Beaches and Areas

The beaches along Santa Teresa stretch for several kilometers, each with its own character. Playa Carmen sits at the center, marked by consistent waves and a busy beach scene. As you move north toward Santa Teresa beach, the sand gets whiter and the crowd spreads out. Further north, Playa Hermosa lives up to its name with clear waters and a quieter vibe.

Small roads lead to hidden beaches on either end of the strip. To the south, Playa Mal País offers rocky tide pools and fishing boats. To the north, beaches like Manzanillo and Majagua take more effort to reach but reward you with nearly empty stretches of sand. The entire coastline faces west, bringing surfers and sunset watchers to the beach every evening.

Playa Carmen Beach

Playa Carmen forms the heart of the area where the main road meets the beach. The wide sand beach has good waves for both beginners and experienced surfers. Several surf schools set up here in the mornings, and you’ll see their students practicing in the whitewash while more experienced surfers head out to the break.

This beach gets busy during mid-day. Surf shops near the beach rent boards and offer lessons. The Super Ronny grocery store sits just back from the sand, making it easy to grab drinks and snacks. Local vendors often set up stands selling fresh coconuts and fruits.

The beach has plenty of shade from almond trees along the sand. The southern end near Mal País has good tide pools for swimming when the surf is big. Most people gather here for sunset, with groups spreading out on the beach or grabbing drinks at the beachfront restaurants.

Santa Teresa Beach

Santa Teresa’s main beach runs north from Playa Carmen for about 3 kilometers. The sand here is whiter than Playa Carmen, and the beach gets wider as you head north. Rocky points break up the beach into smaller sections, each with different waves and swimming conditions.

Several paths lead from the main road to the beach. Signs mark public access points, though some go through hotel properties. The water here breaks harder than at Playa Carmen, drawing more experienced surfers. During low tide, the beach gets wide enough for football games and running.

This stretch has less shade than Playa Carmen but also fewer people. The northern end near Playa Hermosa has some good snorkeling spots around the rocks during calm days. Watch out for strong currents, especially around the rocky points – lifeguards mark dangerous areas with red flags.

Nearby Beaches

North of Santa Teresa, smaller beaches like Manzanillo and Majagua offer a different experience. These beaches take more effort to reach, with rough dirt roads leading through the hills. Manzanillo sits about 15 minutes north by car, while Majagua is another 10 minutes past that. The roads need 4×4 in wet season.

Playa Manzanillo has clear water and good snorkeling around its rocky points. The beach forms a protected bay with gentler waves than Santa Teresa. A small fishing village sits at the south end of the beach, with boats heading out early each morning. The beach has good shade and usually just a handful of people.

Playa Majagua stays almost empty most days. The long beach has white sand and breaks up into small coves at high tide. Getting here means a bumpy drive and a short walk through the forest, but the privacy makes it worth it. There are no facilities at this beach, so bring what you need for the day.

Where to Stay

Santa Teresa offers lodging options spread along the entire strip, from Mal País through Playa Carmen and up to Playa Hermosa. Most places sit either right on the beach or up in the hills with ocean views. The Playa Carmen area has the highest concentration of hostels and mid-range hotels, making it a good base for first-time visitors.

Prices vary widely across the area. Hostels start around $15 for dorm beds, while mid-range hotels run $50-100 per night. High-end villas in the hills can cost several hundred dollars nightly. Dry season (December-April) sees prices increase by 30-50%, and many places require minimum stays of 3-5 nights during this period.

Playa Carmen Hostels

Playa Carmen has most of the area’s budget options, with over a dozen hostels within walking distance of the beach. These range from simple dorm setups to more social hostels with pools and bars. Most hostels cluster along the main road or on the side streets just off the beach.

El Gato Rojas sits near the Playa Carmen intersection, just a two-minute walk from the beach. The hostel has both shared dorms and private rooms built around a central courtyard with hammocks. The shared kitchen and common areas make it easy to meet other travelers, while the location puts you close to grocery stores and restaurants. I stayed at this hostel and paid about $80 USD for an airconditioned private room.

Other popular hostels include Selina with its coworking space, Lost Boyz with its party atmosphere, and Somos with its yoga deck. Most hostels offer surfboard rentals or discounted lessons through partner schools. During high season, booking at least a week ahead is necessary, especially for private rooms.

Santa Teresa Accommodations

The main Santa Teresa strip offers more mid-range and upscale options. Small hotels with 5-10 rooms make up most of the accommodations here. Many have pools and gardens, with rooms built into the hillside for ocean views. The beach access points are less obvious here, so check the walking distance before booking.

Many places fall into the “rustic luxury” category – think outdoor showers and natural materials but with quality beds and good WiFi. Air conditioning becomes important in this area, as the hills can block the sea breeze. Most hotels include breakfast, often featuring local fruits and Costa Rican coffee.

For longer stays, rental homes and apartments become good options. These often come with kitchens and more space, starting around $700 weekly. Rental agencies in town can help with these bookings, or you can find them through booking sites. Many repeat visitors start in hostels then move to longer-term rentals as they get to know the area.

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BONUS VIDEO

Check out our Ambient Costa Rica channel on Youtube where we upload walking and driving tours. This video will show the uncut drive on a moto between Playa Carmen and Santa Teresa.

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are answers to common questions about visiting Santa Teresa and Playa Carmen. These will help you plan your trip to this part of the Nicoya Peninsula.